Sunday, September 6, 2015

Royal Horseguards hotel, London: review

The Royal Horseguards, in London, is an Embankment hotel offering elegant rooms, river views and afternoon tea, close to the South Bank and Covent Garden.


Location
Unbeatable. Sandwiched between Whitehall and the Thames, it’s moments from Embankment tube station and within easy reach of dozens of attractions, including the South Bank, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden.

Style/character
The hotel occupies eight floors of Whitehall Court, an imposing Grade I-listed building with a fascinating history. Built in 1884 in the style of a French chateau, it housed the original Scotland Yard, hosted secret service meetings during the two world wars, and – more recently – emergency talks between the Treasury and bankers tasked with tackling the credit crunch. Other former residents include George Bernard Shaw and H.G. Wells, while the northern end – which adjoins the hotel – has been the National Liberal Club’s HQ since Gladstone’s time (it’s members only, but you can pop your head round the door and admire the marble staircase). Rightly so, a virtue is made of the building’s heritage. Guests can arrange a tour of the building’s opulent private quarters, including the Gladstone Library, which once contained 30,000 books (recreations of the spines remain), while the restaurant’s name – One Twenty One Two – is a nod to Scotland Yard’s former ‘Whitehall 1212’ phone number. In keeping with the architecture, décor is handsome and traditional, with plenty of dark wood and red upholstery. An equine theme pervades, from the painting of charging cavalry behind the concierge’s desk to the bronze ornaments scattered throughout. There’s also a small gym on the top floor.

Service
Efficient and charming at reception, particularly the smartly-attired young gentleman who greeted me on arrival, but things became a little flustered when busy. I had to wait 10 minutes for a table at breakfast, while my requested morning newspaper never materialised.

Rooms
Elegant in style, with views of the Thames and the London Eye from the upper floors. Big windows provide plenty of natural light (although irritating health and safety rules mean the balcony doors only open a fraction). Expect more horsy artwork, white orchids, leather recliners, big chunky desks, wide beds and easy-to-decipher taps and lamps. Space is rather lacking in the cheapest rooms, so opt for a pricier “Executive” double if budget allows. The gloomy inside-facing rooms, which look out onto brick walls, should also be avoided. Modern features include monsoon showers, heated bathroom floors, plasma screen televisions, iPod docks (with speakers – not to mention another television – in the bathroom), and – thank heavens – free and speedy Wi-Fi access. Proper coffee and milk, instead of instant and UHT, would have been appreciated. Among the 283 rooms are a few real treats, including the spectacular top-floor Tower Suite – yours for around £10,000 a night.

Food and drink
The restaurant possesses two AA Rosettes and offers a seasonal menu combining modern British and traditional French cuisines. Mains might include Gressingham duck breast with sweet potato, ginger and vanilla; braised beef with a black pudding crumb; or sole meunière. Best taken on the secluded terrace – weather permitting. The Equus Bar serves cocktails named after former residents, while afternoon tea in the lobby lounge comes highly recommended.

Value for money
Doubles from £390, including breakfast, which feels overpriced given the size of the rooms.

Access for guests with disabilities?
Yes. There are also several adapted rooms (wider door frames, walk-in showers, grab rails), all found close to the lifts.

Family-friendly?
Not especially, although the proximity to the sights is a bonus.

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